Your Choices for Shirts for Grandparents
Have you ever wondered why, in 10 years, the jackets have shortened by 20 centimeters and why our silhouettes seem to have melted so much? The tradition of tailoring 1 escapes the vagaries of fashion.
This is surely why your grandfather knew how to keep his presence year after year with a tweed jacket which may have seemed to you sometimes normal, sometimes too long and too wide for him.
Tailoring is both a craft, that of master tailors, and a quest for classic elegance specific to each man. But it is as a style of dress that we will study it. By that I mean that you can adapt the tailoring to your tastes, and mix it with other influences (the purists will scream, but too bad).
Nick-Wooster
Don’t worry, you will not be asked to reach this level of “personalization”. Tailoring uses timeless and always elegant pieces such as jackets, shirts and pants other than jeans (cold wool, flannel or corduroy pants). You can imagine: no semi-slims jeans, sneakers or nana t shirts here.
On the other hand, rarer pieces will be invited to the party, such as the tweed jacket that any good gentleman wears in the countryside. This is also the case with little forgotten accessories such as pockets and buttonholes.
The Principles Of Sartorial Art
Two main factors can explain the sustainability of the tailoring style. The first is the almost mathematical knowledge of the human silhouette and the different cuts. The second is to be codified according to well-defined rules.
Let me explain ! These are, first of all, the same pieces that come back: jacket, shirt, pants. In addition, the color palette is limited, mainly composed of white, blue and gray, plus a few shades of brown sprinkled with touches of more vivid colors.
Far from limiting creativity, these rules and these well-defined color palettes allow us to express an infinite number of shades, gradients and patterns.
To give you an idea, there are literally hundreds of shades of gray , not to mention all the possibilities offered by the different weavings. Cold wool is well suited for a tweed, for example.
It is a style aimed at men looking for real elegance (which can be as discreet and out of date as flamboyant and modern). But also to those who love noble materials and the craft work done upstream.
Trend and streetwear are two words totally banned here. If there was a motto of the tailoring style: “To each his ideal garment, no matter the fashion”.
The Criteria For Choosing A Suit For Men
There are many criteria for finding the ideal garment. We play on all possible dimensions of a piece to find the perfect match with the morphology of its wearer.
For a jacket, there is a real questioning about the bending, the width of the shoulders and the length of the jacket.
For pants, we ask a thousand questions about its length, its width at the thighs and its opening at the ankle, or its waist height.
Sartorial sketches pants size
The sartorial sketches often represent in a fine and amusing way the gap that can separate the supporters of the classic cuts from men with a more “contemporary” taste, leaving the reader to judge.
This questioning is also found in the design and the finishes.
For a jacket, we focus on the width and length of the cuffs, the mounting and work on the shoulders, the presence or absence of a chest pocket, the number and location of the buttons, etc.